Having won its first Michelin Star within its first year of opening, it is clear that Lita is a special restaurant. Editorial Director, John Lewis, visited to experience the delight in design and cuisine that is on offer here.
Nestled within Marylebone, with opulence in abundance, is the gem that is Lita. With its name taken from ‘abuelita’, an affectionate Spanish term meaning ‘Grandmother’ the restaurant brings the ambiance of a family setting with an open layout and a bustling atmosphere, envisioned and designed by B3 Designers.
The location is just off fashionable Marylebone High Street with its designer shops and upmarket bars, and the exterior is designed with an eye to the Mediterranean, utilising olive and bay trees and an awning and shutters to create a lively, welcoming picture. On a balmy March lunchtime, the outside tables were busy with enthusiastic diners adding to the convivial impression.
The first thing you notice on entry is the warmth of the atmosphere. It’s designed to feel like mama’s kitchen in Catalonia or Tuscany and the shades of russet brown, burnt sienna and terracotta certainly do the job. The walls are minimalist, in neutral colours with the occasional feature wall light or piece of art to grab the attention. The ceiling is imported rustic exposed beams which add to the impression of a southern European eatery, and the same feel is reflected in the flooring which is a combination of what look to be well-worn herringbone and straight-laid aged bricks.
Lighting is designed for effect – warm and subdued using a varied selection of fixtures to create interest and maintain the aesthetic of a family-run local establishment. There are unique shell-design and standard wall lights and a combination of various attractive ceiling fittings and shades to maintain the atmosphere, contrasted by bright low directional spotlights over the kitchen area. The whole effect works together well and makes for a vibrant and active overall image.
Furniture choices are simple yet beautifully made with rich, deep-toned Mediterranean wood, and varied seating arrangements, including the more private banquettes, and square tables easy to push together to accommodate larger groups. A main feature is the lower-than-expected bar counter and raised seating around it, which is deployed to create a ‘living-room’ feel. Counter seating near the cooking area is designed in the style of an oyster or sushi bar, created for guests who want, perhaps, to drop in at lunchtime, watch the chefs in action, soak up the atmosphere and have a one-course meal with a glass of wine.
The overall aim, here, is to create the feeling of a local community hub with open dining and mixed informal and formal seating areas. To facilitate this, the manager and Maitre D’ are in casual chic, with the waiting staff dressed in blue jeans and shirt, covered by long aprons. The rest rooms are along the same lines, simple but with impactful detail in décor and lighting.
At the centre is the open kitchen, which is in full view of all diners with no barriers and there is no doubt that this is the main attraction. As expected, modern stainless-steel stoves and rings are in situ, complemented by an open charcoal grill and an unfaced brick wood-burning oven. There is plenty of performance involved in the delivery of the food, with the head chef, Luke Ahearne, delivering timed instructions to his staff and calling for ‘service’ regularly. Whilst the dining environment feels relaxed and informal, none of this applies to the work in the kitchen. There are several chefs and sous-chefs working very hard in a small, but not confined, space behind the serve-over. The chef stands the other side, almost amidst his customers, ostentatiously checking every dish before it is served and handing the food to the waiting staff, of whom there are very many. Movement and action happens everywhere, it seems every minute, in and around the kitchen, and it is a great spectacle in itself. The pure skill and commitment to excellence of the chefs never ceases to amaze.
And although design is our focus, we cannot fail to mention the food here. Luke Ahearne has a strong background, including most recently Head Chef at Corrigan’s Mayfair, and this is the first time he has ventured out on his own. Amazingly, in his first year of operation, this resulted in the award of a Michelin Star, a terrific achievement. Daniel Koukarskikh, owner of Lita, expressed his pride in the success of the restaurant: “From the very beginning, our goal was to create a restaurant that showcased exceptional produce, craftsmanship and hospitality, but receiving a Michellin Star in under one year is beyond anything we could have imagined.”
The menu is predominantly seasonal with a Mediterranean emphasis as you might expect. Small plates and sharing form the nucleus of the offer, but the quality is certainly not compromised. It’s a three-part menu, from which they invite guests to select as much or as little as suits. Seafood, bluefin Tuna, lobster, an astonishing Ragu which takes four days to cook, and a spectacular custard tart were all highlights.
The wine list draws from a range of producers including some specialist small Italians and combines to make for an interesting choice. The menu design clearly has been constructed hand-in-hand with the interiors creating a family style space which offers an experience lacking in pretension but with great attention to detail.
Daniel explained: “The aim of Lita was to create the ultimate neighbourhood bistro with a dynamic menu, top-notch wine list and relaxed atmosphere. We’ve worked to create something unique to the area that offers an exemplary, modern-day dining experience, and unites food enthusiasts, wine lovers and locals alike, in a laid-back, inviting setting.”
It’s safe to say that Lita has achieved, and surpassed, its aims and delivers a spectacular offering for the London culinary scene.
